Boyana Church and Rila Monastery

Well, we started the day off with a visit to the small but beautiful Boyana Church in Sofia. When we got there the historian was quite abrupt with our guides and we heard some arguing and raised voices. We were a bit worried but we need not have been. We could only go into the church 9 at a time and each group could only stay 10 minutes because they control the humidity and temperature so closely inside the church to save the remaining paintings. Of course, no pictures were allowed inside the church.

How can I describe what the inside was like? As soon as I walked in, I teared up because the frescoes were so well done and well preserved. Another of my colleagues did the same so I did not feel too bad. The historian (he told us to call him Mr. White White) was so passionate about the frescoes. He would grab each of us by the arm to show us particular aspects of the paintings and tell us about how the artist had created them. By the time our 10 minutes were up, almost all of us were crying. It was very powerful. I know that I am doing a very poor job describing this but there is no way I could do it justice.

After that emotional start to the day, we headed for lunch (fresh trout by a river) and then to the Rila Monastery. This monastery was built in honor of St. Ivan who was originally a hermit who lived in a cave in the Rila Mountains and would give advice to locals as well as use healing herbs to cure sickness.
Legend is that he was able to perform healing miracles by the end of his life. We went inside the beautiful church and saw the biggest alter screen I have ever seen. It was very ornate and beautiful. Of course, we could not take pictures inside the church but were able to take pictures outside. The remains of St. Ivan are kept inside the church by the altar and people kiss them hoping for a miracle.


The inside and outside of the church are decorated with some beautiful frescoes as well. Here is one example.

We had the evening free so several of us went right down the street to have pizza and beer (or whatever). It was great. Tomorrow we have some free time to explore the city and rest. It is our first free day since the trip started so we are all looking forward to it.